Best brake pads for Shimano Deore, XT and XTR: compatibility and performance guide

2-piston Shimano MTB brakes

4-piston Shimano MTB brakes

Road / Gravel Shimano brakes

Common Shimano brake pad problems and solutions

Problem 1: New pads squealing immediately

Likely causes:

1. Rotor contamination (oil, chain lube, fingerprints)
2. Improper bed-in procedure
3. Incompatible compound for your rotor type

Solution:

• Clean rotor with 90% isopropyl alcohol
• Perform proper 20-stop bed-in procedure (see our complete brake squeal guide)
• If persistent, try different compound (organic→sintered or vice versa)

Problem 2: Pads wearing unevenly (one side faster)

Likely causes:

1. Caliper misalignment
2. Sticky pistons not retracting evenly
3. Rotor contamination on one side

Solution:

• Re-center caliper using squeeze-and-hold method
• Clean and lubricate caliper pistons
• Inspect rotor for contamination or warping

Problem 3: Soft lever feel or wandering bite point

Likely causes:

1. Air in hydraulic system
2. Contaminated brake fluid
3. Free stroke adjuster issue (common on XT M8100/XTR M9100)

Solution: Bleed with lever fully extended and freestroke screw wound all the way out to create extra volume and flush trapped air pockets. This procedure specifically addresses Shimano’s common air-trapping issues.

Problem 4: Rapid pad wear (lasting <500 miles)

Likely causes:

1. Dragging brake (piston not retracting)
2. Contaminated pads
3. Wrong compound for riding style (organic on e-bike)
4. Rotor glazed causing extra friction

Solution:

• Check that pistons retract fully after brake release
• Replace pads if contaminated (can’t be saved)
• Upgrade to sintered compound if wearing too fast
• Sand rotor with 120-grit if glazed

Problem 5: Brake fade on long descents

Likely causes:

1. Pad compound overheating (organic pads)
2. Inadequate heat dissipation (no Ice Tech)
3. 2-piston system undersized for bike/rider weight

Solution:

• Immediate: Upgrade to sintered pads with fins
• Long-term: Consider larger rotors (160→180, 180→200mm)
• Best solution: Upgrade to 4-piston system if frequently experiencing fade

Proper brake pad installation for Shimano systems

Getting installation right is critical for noise-free, powerful braking.

Essential tools needed

• 3mm or 4mm hex key (depends on caliper)
• Tire lever or pad spreader tool
• Isopropyl alcohol (90%+)
• Clean rag
• Optional: Nitrile gloves (prevent contamination)

Step-by-step installation process

1. Preparation (CRITICAL)

• Clean rotor thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol
• DO NOT touch rotor or pad friction surface with fingers
• Wear gloves or handle pads by backing plate only

2. Remove old pads

• For G-type/D-type: Remove retaining bolt or cotter pin
• Push pistons fully back into caliper
• Slide old pads out, noting orientation

3. Inspect before installing new pads

• Check pistons move freely and retract evenly
• Look for brake fluid leaks around piston seals
• Verify rotor isn’t warped (spin wheel and watch gap)

4. Install new pads

• Insert spring clip first (if separate)
• Slide pads into caliper, matching orientation of old pads
• Install retaining bolt/pin and torque to spec (typically 4-6 Nm)

5. Initial spin test

• Before bed-in, wheel should spin freely with no rubbing
• If rubbing, re-center caliper
• If persistent, check for rotor warp

6. Bed-in procedure (MANDATORY) See our complete brake bed-in guide for the exact 20-stop procedure.

Critical mistakes to avoid:

• ❌ Touching rotor or pads with greasy fingers
• ❌ Skipping the bed-in process
• ❌ Not fully retracting pistons before installation
• ❌ Mixing different compounds front and rear (can cause imbalance)
• ❌ Over-torquing the retaining bolt (strips threads)

When to replace Shimano brake pads: wear indicators explained

Knowing when pads are worn out prevents rotor damage and brake failure.

Visual inspection method

Minimum safe pad thickness: 0.5mm friction material

How to check:

1. Remove wheel and look at pads through caliper
2. Most Shimano pads have 1.5-2.0mm material when new
3. Replace when less than 1mm friction material remains
4. URGENT replacement if backing plate is visible or close to rotor

Signs of critical wear:

• Squealing or grinding noise (metal-on-metal)
• Grooves worn into rotor surface
• Significantly reduced braking power
• Brake lever pulls further than normal

Mileage-based guidelines

These are rough estimates—actual wear depends heavily on riding style and terrain:

Organic pads (G03S, K03S, D03S):

• Road/gravel: 2,000-3,000 miles
• XC trail: 1,000-1,500 miles
• E-bike commuting: 800-1,200 miles
• Enduro/DH: 500-800 miles

Sintered pads (G04S, K04S, D02S):

• Road/gravel: 3,000-4,500 miles
• XC trail: 1,500-2,500 miles
• E-bike commuting: 1,200-2,000 miles
• Enduro/DH: 800-1,500 miles

Factors that accelerate wear:

• Heavy braking style (dragging brakes vs pulsing)
• Wet/muddy conditions (2x faster wear)
• Heavy rider or bike weight
• Steep terrain (more descending)
• Glazed rotors (friction material wears faster)

Upgrading from OEM: when aftermarket makes sense

Not all aftermarket pads are created equal. Here’s when upgrading is worth it.

Scenarios where aftermarket DEFINITELY makes sense

1. E-bike riders needing better heat management

• OEM Shimano pads use steel fiber backing
• Premium aftermarket with copper fiber dissipates heat 5x better
• Worth the $10-15 extra per set for heavy e-bikes

2. Riders experiencing chronic brake squeal

• Aftermarket pads with Kevlar dampening reduce noise
• Often solve squealing that OEM pads can’t fix
• Especially valuable for early-morning rides (neighbors will thank you)

3. Budget-conscious riders buying multiple sets

• If you’re changing pads 3-4x per year, 20% savings add up
• Quality aftermarket like Hardheaded Ram offers OEM performance at lower cost
• Annual savings: $40-60 for frequent riders

4. Riders wanting ceramic compound (not available OEM)

• Shimano doesn’t offer true ceramic compound
• Aftermarket ceramic offers best of organic + sintered
• Quieter than sintered, longer-lasting than organic
• Ideal for e-bikes and all-mountain riding

Scenarios where OEM might be better

1. Warranty considerations

• If bike is under warranty, some manufacturers require OEM parts
• Check warranty terms before switching to aftermarket

2. Racing or competitive riding

• Consistency matters more than cost savings
• Stick with what you know works

3. Road/gravel riders prioritizing rotor lifespan

• Shimano organic pads are intentionally soft to protect rotors
• Some aftermarket compounds are harder (longer pad life, but faster rotor wear)

Maintenance tips for maximum Shimano brake pad lifespan

Get more miles from your pads with these proven maintenance practices.

Monthly maintenance routine (5 minutes)

1. Visual pad inspection
   • Look through caliper opening, check thickness
   • Note any uneven wear patterns
2. Rotor cleaning
   • Wipe down rotors with isopropyl alcohol
   • Removes chain lube overspray and road grime
   • Prevents premature pad contamination
3. Caliper alignment check
   • Spin wheel and listen for rubbing
   • Re-center if needed (takes 2 minutes)

Every 3 months (15 minutes)

1. Deep rotor cleaning
   • Remove wheel, clean both sides thoroughly
   • Inspect for wear grooves or hot spots
2. Piston inspection
   • Remove pads temporarily
   • Push pistons out slightly, clean with isopropyl alcohol
   • Check piston seals for leaks
   • Apply tiny amount of brake fluid to piston perimeter before retracting
3. Brake fluid check
   • Look at reservoir (usually under rubber cap on lever)
   • Fluid should be clear, not brown/cloudy
   • If discolored, schedule full brake bleed

Annually or every 2,000 miles

1. Complete brake bleed
   • Fresh fluid prevents spongy lever and internal corrosion
   • Especially important if riding in wet conditions
2. Rotor replacement consideration
   • Shimano rotors should be replaced at 1.5mm thickness
   • Use digital caliper to measure (new rotors are 1.8-2.0mm)

Tips that dramatically extend pad life

Brake dragging is the enemy:

• Pulsing brakes (squeeze-release-squeeze) uses 50% less pad material than dragging
• On long descents, do 5-second hard brakes instead of constant light pressure

Clean your bike away from brakes:

• When washing, cover disc brakes with plastic bags
• Chain lube overspray is a major pad killer

Bed-in every time:

• Even when re-using old pads after wheel removal
• 5-10 moderate stops refreshes the transfer layer

Regional considerations: brake pad choice for different climates

Where you ride significantly impacts which compound performs best.

Dry, dusty climates (Southwest US, Southern California, Australia)

Best choice: Sintered pads

• Why: Dust acts as an abrasive, organic pads wear extremely fast
• Sintered compounds resist dust contamination better
• Trade-off: More noise, but worth it for 2x lifespan

Additional recommendation:

• Clean rotors every ride (2-minute job)
• Consider larger rotors to spread heat over bigger surface

Local insight: In hot, dusty conditions like Southern California mountain biking, Ice Tech cooling significantly reduces brake fade.

Wet, muddy climates (Pacific Northwest, UK, Northern Europe)

Best choice: Sintered with copper backing

• Why: Organic pads lose power immediately when wet
• Sintered maintains 90%+ power in rain
• Copper backing prevents water-induced thermal shock

Maintenance critical:

• Pads wear 2-3x faster in wet conditions
• Inspect pads after every wet ride
• Replace more frequently (by mileage) than dry-climate riders

Cold climates (winter riding, high altitude)

Best choice: Organic for moderate cold, sintered for extreme

• Organic pads work well in cold (unlike car brakes)
• Sintered may squeal more in very cold temperatures
• XTR’s low-viscosity mineral oil helps in cold (available M9100+ systems)

Cold weather tip:

• First 2-3 brake applications may feel wooden in sub-freezing temps
• This is normal—pads warm up quickly with use

Hot, humid climates (Southeast US, tropical regions)

Best choice: Sintered with Ice Tech fins

• Why: Heat + humidity = maximum thermal stress
• Finned pads essential for proper cooling
• Consider upgrading rotor size if experiencing fade

Final recommendations: what to buy for your specific Shimano setup

Here’s the bottom line for each common Shimano brake system.

If you have: Shimano Deore M6100 (2-piston)

Best OEM option: G04S (sintered) for versatility Best aftermarket: Hardheaded Ram G-type sintered with copper fiber Upgrade path: If needing more power, move to M6120 4-piston (same pads, more pistons)

If you have: Shimano XT M8100 (2-piston)

Best OEM option: G04Ti (sintered with fins) for trail/all-mountain